Pat Moloney is Textile Artist with a background in Education and Design. She lives and works in West London.
Inspired by the inherent tactile and sensory qualities of both structured and woven textiles, my ideas are a response to the natural and manmade world. I am expert in observation, fascinated by minute details and textures. I look and record how light can change what the eye perceives not only in nature but in the wider landscape. I enjoy using a wide range of techniques, exploring the potential of different and new materials, and returning to old favourites. I strive to create work that engages the eye and the mind to communicate within the visual language of textiles, a more sensory experience.
I have worked with pile weaves using the Finnish Ryijy knotting technique for a number of years. Ryijy is a traditional woven rug made and used for centuries in Finland. However, it is technique that lends itself to contemporary interpretation, and I have incorporated it into many ideas particularly in the use of colour and different materials. Each knot is individual and this allows for maximum control over the blending of colours and textures. My materials have ranged from conventional woollen carpet yarn to rubber, sisal, recycled yarns and fabric and even plastic supermarket bags.
Nit de Foc
In this piece I have used a mixture of woollen carpet yarn and selected recycled sari silk yarn spun in Nepal and India from the end warps of looms weaving silk saris. The inspiration: the Spring festival ( Falla ) that takes place in Valencia where sculptural pieces that are made especially for the event are set on fire on the final night of the Falla.
Nit de Foc (detail)
Nit de Foc : on my Finnish Rug loom
The Walls of Lecce
This two pieces use traditional rug techniques, cut and uncut pile to create different textual effects. The inspiration: the changing light on the ancient and crumbling walls in city of Lecce in Southern Italy. Colours are combined within each in each knot to achieve the subtle effects of the movement of light.
The Walls of Lecce : Work in progress
Striped Sunset
Striped sunset is really an exploration in colour theory. How certain colours grow to a greater intensity when placed next to each another and are used in different proportions. This phenomena also occurs in nature in a striped sunset. The use of cut and uncut pile is used to subtly change the texture.
Striped Sunset (detail)
Inspired by a series of photographs of the Aegean Sea and by just observing and absorbing the colour and rhythms this piece is like a woven sea scape. However, I have chosen to develop the piece as an expression of the different moods and rhythms of the sea in a more abstract format.
Each section is an in depth response representing the different rhythms and patterns that the sea makes from shore to skyline. The hand techniques of wrapping and traditional Finnish Rug knotting, give me the scope to have complete control over the colour movements and textures to create multi sensory qualities.
Nature Unravelling, Edipsos 1, Edipsos 2, Aegean Seascape.
These small intricate pieces use traditional tapestry techniques to recall the atmosphere of a place. Colour, light, reflection and shadow have become persistent themes.
Perception, memory and imagination are constantly interacting with each other.
Nature Unravelling
Edipsos 1
Edipsos 1 Detail showing the luminous effect of light reflecting materials used in the weft
Edipsos 1 Detail
Edipsos 2
Edipsos 2 Detail
Aegean Seascape
Aegean Seascape Detail
Bauhaus Weave Collection 1-4.
Inspired by the peeling paintwork on Greek island fishing boats, this collection of four pieces should be viewed together. Hand woven on a multi-shaft handloom, they are constructed using a technique favoured by the Bauhaus weaver, Anni Albers. In the weft, carefully selected colours from a range of recycled Sari yarn from Nepal and India create a painterly abstract element .
Bauhaus weave 1 .
Bauhaus weave 2
Bauhaus weave 3
Bauhaus weave 4
A collaboration with five designers from different disciplines at London Metropolitan University in 2009 led to the production of these pieces using digital technology.
The research project was concerned with what kind of changes are required in so called traditional design methodologies and practice when these practices involve state of the art digital technologies. Furthermore, what results are gained through fundamentally changing to digital processes?
It questioned
"how satisfying and creative is 'virtual' design, with only a digital interface at our fingertips, compared to the act of weaving, cutting, stitching, printing and manipulating cloth?”
These pieces were woven after a visit to Norway where I was able to sample my designs on a digital jacquard handloom. Since then, I have explored the potential of incorporating more traditional methods of needle felting, embellishment and dyeing the woven lengths thereby giving the opportunity to create an interchange between hand, mind and the digital aesthetic.
Sampling on the Digital Hand Jacquard loom TC1 in Norway
Ghost Net 1
The name Ghost net refers to the nets that fisherman have lost and are now on the sea bed. They are now a cause for environmental concern.
Ghost Net 1 detail showing enhancement using stitching and felt.
Ghost Net 2
Ghost Net 2 detail.
Ghost Net 2 detail.
Charred Net
Wave upon Wave
Design taken from the adjacent constructed piece, Loop upon Loop. The piece incorporates a light reflective yarn in the weft.
As part of my research programme at London Metropolitan University, I explored the way in which different light sources when combined with textiles can affect our sensory experiences with a view to enhancing our health and well being.
Certain light sources such as optical fibres and special light boxes have been found to be useful to alleviate medical conditions such as SAD and ADD. The aim was to produce textile forms which are visually stimulating without light but can be further enhanced or transformed with the addition of a light source.
By incorporating conventional, recycled and advanced materials with light technology to create a fusion of centuries old structures (hand woven and structured textiles) and new technology, the scope for development could be considerably enlarged.
Some of these pieces formed a part of that research others were made as exhibition pieces at a later date.
Light Changes Everything.
Woven panel with reflective yarns and optical fibres on a five colour sequence.
Light Changes Everything.
Colour sequence.
Light Changes Everything.
Colour sequence
Light Changes Everything detail
Loop upon Loop
Free form hand weaving, mounted on a light box
Loop upon Loop. Detail (without light)
Loopy Landscape
Hand manipulated weave with luminous polyester filament yarns and plastic tubing
Stavanger Net
Hand manipulated netting enhanced with colour changing Laser Pods
Weave upon Weave
Hand manipulated weave, rubber, metal, nylon and fancy yarns. Mounted on a light box
Weave upon Weave detail.
Loop upon Loop 2
Wrapped cords manipulated and woven with nylon, wire and threads,
Mounted on a light box
Seascape
Woven with wire to enable distortion and varied textured yarns.
Seascape.
Mounted on a light source to create a bold tonal effect
I take a lot of photographs, my camera is always with me when I travel. I look for minute details, the interaction of colour with textures, lines and marks, the shapes that are cast by shadows and reflections and the juxtaposition of manmade constructions with nature. I use these as my inspiration, to recall the memory and atmosphere of a place. I don’t work directly from the photographs, sometimes I make a drawing but mostly make a careful selection of yarns and materials to create a colour and tonal inventory. Trusting my intuition, I allow each piece to evolve in its own way to develop a response to what I have experienced and in the same process, allow the materials to create multi sensory qualities.
IN TRANSITION
These wall hangings were created in the 1980s. They represent a change in direction from designing textiles for the Furnishing Textile industry to more a craft based approach.
Taking visual inspiration from landscape, drawings and photographs, it was an opportunity to explore more textile techniques. To experiment with different materials, to take risks and recognise the potential of the unexpected.
To take something seemingly quite ordinary and turn it into something extraordinary.
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Nestling:
Two 3 dimensional forms using coiling techniques.
Trees
A combination of woven pile, incorporating wrapping techniques.
Canyons
Three dimensional wall hanging using knotting techniques
Diagonals.
Pile techniques woven in three strips and joined.
Twisting and Turning.
Cording and yarn wrapping techniques
Courtaulds
These samples were commissioned by Courtaulds Furnishing Fabric Marketing Division based in Coventry. The decline in the cotton industry in the 1960s, led to Courtaulds taking over the Lancashire Cotton Corporation and a number of small companies and converting these to spinning Courtelle.
The hand woven designs were produced in my South Warwickshire studio. The design brief imposed few limitations but put an emphasis on colour which was then considered to be a vital tool in promotion. A yarn range was usually made up of 14 colours to accommodate the designer’s need for producing designs with six colour ways. Samples could be experimental in construction and colour combinations, the aim being to sell the yarn range to manufacturers by exploiting the character of the yarn and colour in the design, rather than to design a fabric that would sell thousands of metres. The samples were mainly woven in Courtelle but some contained other fibres, such as Evlan and rayon chenille and cotton.
Some of these designs were put into production by Courtaulds Northern Spinning Division and Sundour Fabrics.
A selection of designs commissioned by Courtaulds are now held in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Textiles and Fashion collection.
The Camberwell ILEA Collection:
This collection of objects, known as the Circulating Design Scheme representing British and Scandinavian Design was put together from 1950 - 1975 for ILEA schools to teach children the principles of good design through the study of objects and materials. It was a handling collection, in purpose built showcases, with museum styled displays for use in the classroom.
These pieces represent a selection from duplicate or similar pieces, lengths of cloth and panels commissioned for this collection. Currently stored at Camberwell College of Arts and in the process of conservation and cataloging.
Hand woven length with fringe effect: wool , mohair and velvet ribbon
Hand woven length with random warp stripes : brushed wool
Handwoven length with tiny glass beads: Silk and cotton, incorporating pre threaded beads into the weft .
Hand woven length with pearl beads: wool, mohair, velvet ribbon, and pre threaded beads.
Perspex panel with interlocked metallic paillettes in different sizes.
Evening dress bodice with stitched and interlocked mauve and fluorescent pink paillettes.
Perspex panel with interlocked paillettes in fluorescent pink, orange and pearl in a random design.
This collection of hand woven pieces entitled High Rise has been inspired by the abstract forms in the construction of the city’s high rise buildings. They are a contemporary interpretation of traditional block weaves. Produced as framed wall pieces and a range of cushions in cotton and other fibres. Woven in colours that are designed to complement 21st century interior spaces and make an individual but functional statement to a room.